Fast facts

Country Visited

Pakistan

Visas

Yes*

 

Fitness Level & Technical Ability

Climbers wishing to join this expedition must already be experienced with rock and ice climbing and have successfully completed previous climbs at high altitude, over 6,000m.

This expedition requires excellent levels of fitness to endure the extreme conditions of summiting Lupgar Sar 7200m. To prepare for this, climbers should undergo a regular and strenuous exercise regime for at least 6 months to build their strength, stamina and endurance.

 

Vaccinations

Please consult a travel vaccination specialist for up to date information

 

Singles

A single supplement is not always possible on this trip. In many instances campsite size is limited and it will be necessary to share with another team member. This also applies to mountaineering expeditions. Single supplement in hotels is available. Please contact Shams Alpine Mountaineering & Trekking Pvt Ltd for specific detail, relevant to your trip.

 

Entry points 

K2 Base Camp can be reached from Islamabad by plan to Skardu city or else by road through Karakorum Highway to Skardu. The second way can be reached from China via Khungerab National Park, by road through KKH (The Old silk route) to Hunza, Gilgit   then to Skardu City

 

Leader

 Discover the spectacular hidden Karakoram with English speaking, world renowned Shimshali mountain guides

 

Adventure travel

By its very nature adventure travel involves an element of the unexpected. In remote and developing countries do not expect standards you are used to at home. Remote areas are sometimes unpredictable and itineraries may be altered. To get the most out of your adventure it is important that you are flexible, positive and eager to take on all the challenges that arise. If you are uncertain about your suitability for this trip we recommend that you contact us with any concerns. We are happy to answer any questions.

 

Responsible travel

The environments we travel through are fragile. It is our responsibility as visitors to minimize the impact of our presence.

 

 

Lupgar Sar 7,200m Expedition 

Trip Duration: 45 days

Season:  June – August 

Grade:  Extreme

Activities: Trekking, Climbing & exploring the traditional valleys

Accommodation:  45 days Expedition,09 nights hotel, 35 nights trek, camping and Summit climb.

Tour from Gilgit Airport to get to the Trek start at Dut.

On your drive/tour from Gilgit to Karimabad, Hunza and onto Passu (along the KKH and a section of the ancient Silk Road) and then to Shimshal you will enjoy some of the most outstanding scenery in Northern Pakistan. The Gilgit River and terraces of farmland will be beside you as you drive north. You will stop and enjoy the views of the junction of the Western edge of the Himalayas with the Karakorum and the Hindu Kush mountain ranges. You will stop at the base of Rakaposhi (7,788m) and gaze up the Ghulmet Glacier at the highest unbroken slope on earth 5,838m above you. You will explore beautiful Karimabad with its delicious apricots (in the right season) and the famous Baltit Fort. The ancient roadside sacred rocks at Haldeikish and the drive north through picturesque villages and farmland and along the Khunjerab river; then to Passu  with the amazing granite cathedral mountain tops surrounding you before you turn off the KKH up the narrow breath taking gorge road to Dut.

About this Mountain

Lupgar Sar 7,200m, the 44 highest peak in Pakistan and 109 in the world, is located in Hispar Muztagh range in the Karakorum western range of Pakistan.  With its southeastern neighbours of Momhil Sar 7,43m and Trivor 7,577m, it forms the Momhil Sar Group. Lupgar Sar can be approached from Hispar or Shimshal side. It takes three days from KKH to reach the base of Lupgar Sar from Shimshal side.

It is one of the majestic and technical mountains with a collection of three summits of  almost equal heights on an east-west axis. The West Summit was climbed in June 1979 via the SW Ridge by Austrians and again in early August the same year by Japanese, who continued to traverse the 1/2 kilometer ridge to the Central Summit. The East Summit is believed to have received an unauthorised ascent in the 1980s. All three summits are quoted as 7,200m. In 1986 two Spanish climbers explored an approach up the Baltbar Glacier and discovered that the SW Spur of the mountain offered a magnificent line.

In 1992 a Korean team organized an expedition for Lupgar Sar of its unexplored North Face. The expedition was aborted when their two top climbers disappeared above Camp 3. Later on a Korean team tried to climb it on the same route but unfortunately did not get an opportunity to summit.   The North Face is still unclimbed.

Our Director, Mr. Shaheen Baig started his climbing career as a high altitude porter with the Korean expedition on this peak in 1995.

Short itinerary

Day 01    Arrive Islamabad – Hotel

Day 02    Briefing at Ministry of Tourism – Hotel

Day 03    Fly to Gilgit or drive to Chilas -Hotel

Day 04    Drive to Hunza (second day of the drive to Hunza) – Hotel

Day 05    Drive to Passu Village – Hotel

Day 06    Drive to Dut and trek to Yez-e-mis – Camp

Day 07    Trek to Buspur ghil – Camp

Day 08    Trek to Lupgar sar Base Camp – Camp

Day 09/39    setting up camps and Summit climb – Camp

Day 40/41    Trek back to Dut and drive to Hunza – Hotel

Day 42    Fly to Islamabad or Drive to Chilas – Hotel

Day 43    Free day for Shopping in Islamabad or drive from Chilas to Islamabad – Hotel

Day 44    Debriefing at Ministry of Tourism – Hotel

Day 45    Departure from Islamabad

Our Services Includes

Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for climbing permit process, providing measurements of the appointed Liaison officer for his prescribed kit

Process of import/export permit from ministry of tourism.

Clearance of cargo before arrival of the team and its storage.

Assistance upon arrival/departure.

Official Briefing/Debriefing. Safety equipment included and medical kit

Porters, Guides, Cook and other staffs insurance.

Full board (breakfast, lunch & dinner) and cooking & eating utensils and mess tent up and at Base Camp and Invitation letter for travel to Pakistan to assist with your visa application.

below.

Wages for guides, cook and Low porters.

Good quality accommodation in cities and towns in twin bed shared rooms. Single room supplement is available.

Internal Jeep transport by private vehicle.

Tented camps on shared basis while trekking and at Base Camp.

Porterage of 75 kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. to the B.C. and 50 kg per person on return from BC.

Our Service does not include

International & domestic airfares, airport taxes, excess baggage charges, and travel Insurance.

Surface transfers in case of flight cancellations to Skardu.

Liaison Officer’s kit and equipment, allowances, travel, hotels, meals, insurance and his personal expenses of any kind.

High altitude porters and any crew above BC.

Tents, sleeping bags, personal and climbing equipment of any kind beyond Base Camp including high altitude food and oxygen.

Medications, ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges of any kind.

Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills and any items of personal nature.

Insurance liability of member(s) and others under force majeure conditions.

Climbing Permit, Pollution and Environmental fee or any other fee required to be paid to the Government of Pakistan.

Clearing agent charges.

Any other service not mentioned in this condition sheet.

 

Optional High Altitude Service

High altitude tents (The North Face V25/Mountain 25)

Ropes (Static and Dimanic 8mm) and Sling rope 5-6mm

Emergency oxygen cylinder (Posik) and Mask regulator

Rock pitons, Snow bars, Ice screws, Snow shovels, leaders

EPI Gas (Calman), Jetbowl, and high altitude cooking set

High altitude food

High Altitude sleeping bags, Mattress, Ice Axe and Crampons.

Guides and porters

Our local guides and porters are all experienced, handpicked and trained by Shaheen Baig (director of Shimshal Mountaineering School) and Qudrat Ali (Manager of Shimshal Mountaineering School) to ensure that our clients have the best opportunity for success with comfort. A porter will carry your kit bag and you will be expected to carry your own day pack which should be large enough to carry all you will need throughout the day e.g. sunscreen, raincoat, water bottle, camera, spare long sleeved clothing, snow protection glasses, sun protection gloves, hat and scarves, snack food, etc.